Let's Go North: Monkeys, Mosques, and Witches, Oh My!

Last night I returned home from my trip to the Northern Region of Ghana and I am happy to report that it was probably some of my favorite days in Ghana. Not only did we get to see beautify scenery but we also got to hang out with animals, enjoy the calm atmosphere of the north, and meet some of the most genuine people of Ghana. Also, we traveled during the elections which (while unadvised) gave us even more dynamic experience.  As a side note, I'm sorry, pictures will come in about a week once I return to the US. For now, all pictures come from google..

Monday morning (around 6am) my two friends, Paige and Jessalyn, and I left our comfy homes in East Legon to get on a trotro to Kumasi. I would like to point out that we took trotros the entire way to the the north, giving us a bumpy, back-road, lengthy, and hilarious experience. After about 5 hours we arrived in Kumasi. After a small crisis regarding too much pure water and not enough public toilets in the Central Market of Kumasi we found ourselves on another trotro to our first destination of Techiman. We met an amazing man in this small town who helped us get a fabulous deal on a guest house for the night. Funny enough, it turns out it was the same guest house that strictly told us we couldn't put 3 people in the room (a recurring problem in hotel hunting).

Since we were in bed by 7pm that night (another theme to this trip) we were up before the sun around 5 or 5:30am. After checking out of hour guesthouse we got on another trotro that led us to the Boabeng-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary. We didn't make it to the sanctuary however. The cab driver and the man that shared our taxi made some sort of deal and we only got as far as the village that borders the sanctuary. This turned out fine because we still got a tour of the back of the sanctuary and got to feed some Mona monkeys.

After hanging with the monkeys we got on a trotro to Kintampo, our destination for the night. This was probably the bumpiest "road" that I have traveled on in Ghana...and the dustiest. Oh, have I mentioned that anything can happen on a trotro? Well, halfway through the ride a goat joined us inside the trotro. We were crossing our fingers the entire time that it wouldn't pee on our bags since it was standing on top of our backpacks. 

(ps, the goat was alive)

In Kintampo we went to the waterfalls. While they were not as big as Wli Falls it was still a nice experience and a good way to get away from the people, cars, and general noise. We stayed in a guest house in Kintampo Tuesday night.  

Wednesday morning we were up early and on our way into the Northern Region to Mole National Park.  Mole is the largest national park in Ghana (over 4,000km in area) and home to the Savannah grasslands and animals like birds, dear, monkeys, elephants, and more. Of course, our one and only goal was to see elephants.  We were unlucky because we came at the end of the mating season so the elephants dont appear in the walking areas as often. Oh well. We got to hear silence for the first time in 4 months. Another plus, we ate some delicious fufu and light soup at a canteen that mostly serves the park workers. As another side note, by this time on the trip we were consistently covered in red dust. When we arrived in Mole after our bumpy trotro rides, the three of us were at least 3 shades darker due to the caked on dust. Also, according to our guide book we did the impossible. We took trotros from Kintampo to Damongo Junction and then from there to Damongo and finally to Mole. According to the author and his sources, most people can't get a trotro at Damongo Junction and end up having to go all the way to Tamale and then on to Mole. Basically, we were pretty proud of ourselves!

The next day, after our morning walking safari we went to a small village outside the park called Larabanga. This was my favorite part of the trip. We met a guy name Ibraham who runs a homestay thing. He gave us a tour of the different aspects of Larabanga, fed us three times, and let us sleep on a the roof of a mud hut. This was all run on donation. To explain a little further, Ibraham teaches children in the morning and evening Arabic and school subjects to kids that can't go to school. Larabanga doesn't have a high school either and education is something that Ibraham and his family are trying to improve. The village is called "the home of tourists" mainly because foreigners are the ones that are helping provide the essentials to the village. The corruption and inefficiency of the Ghana government make access to financial help from domestic sources extremely hard. I loved Larabanga- the people there accepted us right away and we spent a relaxing day hanging out with Ibraham and his many friends. His brother Muhammad also showed us around the village in the afternoon.

While I enjoyed Larabanga, we were exposed to the true problems of poverty. Aside from problems of education access, until 2 years ago this village didn't have a source for clean water so guinea worm, diarrhea, intestinal worms, and other serious problems were affecting people. Most people live in mud huts or something similar. Running water is non-existent and bucket showers are the only source for a bath. Simplicity. Yet also daily struggles beyond the listed ones. I found peace here and I loved the sound of the Islamic Call to Prayer that came from the mosques. Speaking of mosques, Larabanga is home to the oldest mosque in Ghana. It is quite a sight, even though it is small.

We slept on the roof of a mud hut. We almost froze to death. Northern Ghana has entered the beginning of the dry season which brings very cold nights and mornings and dreadfully hot days. A plus, mosquitoes dont like the cold, yay! We slept on something like this:

I was sad to leave Larabanga. However we had to move on to Tamale (which sounded easier than it actually was because this day, Friday, was election day). We made it to Tamale though, were we stayed in a teacher's hostel and found hot water!!! Because it was voting day the city of Tamale had shut down. We relaxed and wandered through the capital city, ate some insanely cheap food, and met up with some friends that had ventured to the north the day before.

While Jessalyn, Paige, and I were in Larabanga we had decided to change our travel plans. Instead of venturing to Togo we decided that we wanted to go farther north to Gambaga to visit a witch camp. Yes, a witch camp. Where accused witches live and seek refuge...kind of. This place is so complicated. Some say its a sanctuary for women who are thrown out of their villages while others claim the camps are human rights violations. Basically, in a short summary, women (mainly elderly women) are accused of being witches by people in their villages (for whatever reason) and threatened to be killed, harmed, or sent away. So instead of being killed they are taken to the chief of Gambaga who works with the lesser deities (small gods) and relieves them of their supposed witchcraft. Then they are allowed to live in small small huts in a secluded area of the Gambaga village where they no longer have magical power. The women are free to leave but they have nowhere else to go. So they stay...

(We met this Chief)

So we were in Gambaga on Saturday. We also met the nicest lady- she owned the guest house that we stayed in. The next morning we were back on a trotro to Tamale so that we could catch the 5pm VIP bus back to Accra (a bus ride that only ended up taking 10.5 hours!)

There are many more details of this trip that would take days to write however I hope to share them and many more adventures with everyone when I get back home next Tuesday/Wednesday. I hope this blog finds everyone well! I miss yall and can't wait to catch up!

With love,
Anna

Ghanaian Paradise

I think I found a bit of paradise at Busua Beach this weekend. My friend had her 21^st birthday this weekend so 6 friends and I decided to trek past Takaradi in the Western Region for a little relaxation and fun. We left East Legon around 8am, passing through our typical Accra trotro stations and, from there on to Takaradi. The drive, while almost 6 hours, is beautiful. We drove along the coast of Ghana for hours, and seriously, I have never seen pretty beaches. The Gulf of Guinea just doesn’t compare to the Gulf of Mexico…haha.

We stayed in a placed called the Alaska Hotel. Our rooms were huts and it was awesome. From where we stayed we could walk about 5 steps onto the beautiful sand and clear, blue water. I have never seen ocean water this clear before. There was an island in the distance, coastal mountains to our left and right, wooden fishing boats with Ghana flags anchored in the shallows of the sea. Seriously spectacular.

Friday night we all decided to eat Kenkey (Fante Kenkey) with pepae. Kenkey is basically a fermented maize ball. To eat it you mash it with your fingers, scoop up the salsa-ish red pepper sauce. And it costs around $1 and you are full for days. It also went great with our appeteshi! Also, along with my surprise for enjoyable Kenkey (I didn’t like this food the first time I ate it), it rained heavily that night. Ghanaian rain is wonderful, anytime, anywhere.

Since we all fell asleep around 10pm we were up with the sun. While this is a normal sleeping routine for us we were surprised that our get-away didn’t equate to us sleeping in a little later. By 6am we were up and about. I found a hammock. Did I mention that I found paradise this weekend?? We listened to music, read, and relaxed in the heating morning until about 8am when we heard of a pancake man around the corner. Banana pancakes were what we have all been craving so we were thrilled with the overly-sweet treats that landed on our plates. Note to Ariana: if you read this, plan a pancake date for when I get back. I miss our whole-wheat banana-berry pancakes with almond butter.

Tera, Jessalyn, and I headed back to Accra on Saturday. It was a short trip but we all had papers and projects to finish for this week. The drive back ended up being about 8 hours…so a long time to be trapped inside a trotro. To diverge the ridiculous traffic we found ourselves in the back roads that resembled an off-roading excursion. There was no electricity in these areas and I am sure that the residents got a laugh out of watching this trotro try to maneuver their streets. It is times like this when I realize what officials mean when they say there is no open land in greater-Accra. People live everywhere and there is only small small land available.

After the long trip I was so happy to see Banku and Palm Nut soup waiting for me when I returned. My mom makes the best Ghanaian food. Ever think you would like to eat another ball of maize dough? Banku is my favorite out of the many starch balls that we eat. And last night I discovered that my family’s regional Banku is my favorite. Go figure! Like every weekend, this was a Ghanaian food-filled weekend. While I will probably only attempt to make Banku for my American people once, I hope to cook some of the amazing soups, stews/sauces, plantains and beans for yall when I get back in 5 weeks.

Another update, I have finished all my classes and just have finals and projects coming in the few weeks. At the beginning of December my friend, Paige, and I are going to travel to the Northern Region for a week or so. We are hoping to take a cargo boat up the Volta River to Northern Ghana (this is a 36+ hour adventure). Once we make it there we will go to Tamale, the capital city, and Mole National Park to see elephants. If time permits then we might go to the Upper West Region to see hippos. If not we will travel down the other side of Ghana in the West so that we can go back to Busua Beach and a village that stands on stilts in a lagoon. Basically we will try to circle the country before we leave a week later. This trip is coming to an end and I can’t believe it!

I hope everyone is doing well! The electricity has stopped going out so frequently and I am told the internet will come back this upcoming week so maybe I will be able to be in better communication. Eat something fabulous on Thanksgiving for me! 

Oh Baby Baby it's a Wild World

Today was a good day. As I have mentioned, I am an intern for WiLDAF Ghana, an NGO that stands for Women in Law and Development in Africa. They are a very vocal organization that deals with the entire spectrum of women's issues, from land ownership, to domestic abuse, to women in politics. I work for for the communication and advocacy department of WiLDAF, and most of the time I just follow the newspapers and note any news reports that deal with gender, youth, and the disabled.

Today was different. Since Ghana is holding their presidential elections in December WiLDAF held a dialogue conference on women. Here, 3 of the 5 main presidential candidates had to personally answer questions about social issues facing Ghanaians and share their specific strategies for reducing the problems. While the current president was not in attendance many other important government officials were still there. Even the ambassador of Israel which I had a chance to say hi to. I was crossing my fingers that my connection with WiLDAF would let me meet the candidates however they bolted before that was an option. Oh well. It was still pretty awesome to feel like an important member of a political dialogue such as this (especially since WiLDAF has a small staff and my direct supervisor was the main cause of the program.)

Even though this was a small feat in the progression of women's issues entering the public political discussion it was still noteworthy. There will be a few more events such as this one and I am excited for the opportunities that this job will bring.

Oh, someone asked me if I was journalist, I don't know why, but that made me happy, haha. Just another day in Ghana...

Happy Thursday Yall!

Hohoe Excursion!!!

This past weekend 6 of my friends and I traveled 5 hours north to the Volta region to Hohoe. What an adventure! Full of ups and downs, literally, we found ourselves in some difficult situations that ended up to be extremely worth while. I was up before dawn around 4am so that we could start our journey without delay. After wandering around Makola market in downtown Accra for an hour we finally found the correct bus to Ho (the midway point to our destination.) This bus was quite funny. My friend Terra had to hold on to a refrigerator so that it wouldn't fall over, there were live chickens on this bus, and everyone seemed to be carrying as much stuff as possible with them.

From Ho we picked a trotro to Hohoe. It was the best trotro experience we have had since there were only 7 of us in it instead of the average 11. After checking into our hotel (which I wouldn't recommend to anyone) we traveled to Mount Afadjato. This was the hardest hike I have been on in a long time. The 45 minute climb was vertical and, being the tallest peak in Ghana it's at an altitude of 885 meters. The view was beautiful! (Note on pictures: my camera and phone have dead batteries to I will share my friends' pictures with you as I get them...again.) Oh! I should mention that the trotro that took us to the mountain crammed 22 people into (and on-top-of) the car. Might I add that all trotros are the same size...so there are 11 seats...

On the way down from the mountain we went by a different trail. I think we all spent more time on our butts and hands and knees than on our feet. We basically fell down the mountain! Luckily we had no injuries so it was all laughter. The unfortunate part of coming down was when we came to the realization that we had ended up on the other side of the mountain in a different village...still a tourist destination because of Tagbo falls yet a separate entity when it comes to travel and tours. After explaining why we had basically trespassed into the village we got motorbikes back to Hohoe, and honestly, this was the best part of Friday. None of us could wipe the smiles off our faces when we got off the bikes- we all had a blast. We got back to Hohoe a little after dark; what a full day!

We had some problems with the hotel that we were staying in so we decided to relocate the next day (Saturday) to a different hotel called Taste Lodge. This was the best decision ever! They had food, blankets, towels, toilet paper, hospitality, and little mold, all of which were not part of the previous hotel. So starting the day off with another round of bread, peanut butter, and bananas we left around 10am to Wli Waterfalls. These are probably the most spectacular waterfalls in Ghana. Another plus, the trotro ride had less people and less bumpy road.

Since the rainy season has experienced less rain than usual we were able to hike to the upper falls. This included an hour and a half extreme hike to the  falls. I thought I was gonna die. The hike up to the gorgeous falls was very similar to the mountain hike, and there were points were I literally though my legs were not long enough to reach the next step. The physical pain was well worth what we came across at the falls though and I was proud that I was able to accomplish the hike. I will show yall pictures of the upper falls later but I currently have pictures of the lower falls that we saw once we climbed back down. Funny enough, for a dry rainy season it started to rain when we were at the lower falls. By the time we got back to the main building to catch a ride back we all had to ring out our clothes because we were so soaked.

We left Sunday morning for Accra, getting back midday. It was interesting because while I was gone I had really missed my Ghanaian family. They all really feel like my real family now so it was great to come home and be welcomed back with the same feelings. Not to mention an amazing meal of fish and waakye with salad was there when I got back!

We had some intense bumps along the way since this was our first independent travel experience. I can't say for sure that I will be doing much more of that except around Accra and maybe a little later in November to the northern region to see Mole National Park and Tamale. Perceptions of foreigners often leads to ciaos at points and it became a little overwhelming, especially when we were trying to get transportation. Nevertheless, going to Hohoe was well worth the trials. Another fun fact is that my adopted sister, Bridget, comes from Hohoe. I was happy to see her part of Ghana.

I want to take a moment to let everyone know that with all the violence happening in Africa right now, I am safe and do not see any problems occurring Ghana in the near future. While Anti-American sentiment is high and rising this is mostly not a problem in Ghana. Just as there are many different sects and beliefs in Christianity, the same exists with Islam. Ghana in general is very peaceful and stays in good relation with the US. It is also about 16% Islamic, and mainly exists in the northern half of Ghana. Above all, even though Islamic sects are present in Accra there is constant talk of peace and it never has presented a problem. I caution everyone to keep in mind the intersectionality that history, politics, international relations, geography, religion, poverty, and more play a role in the development of violence and uprisings. So while it is true that a large amount of Islam exists in Ghana, the circumstances, context, and style of all issues play out in a very different way here than in countries with violence at the moment. Also, Libya, Sudan, Tunisia, and Egypt are all located in Northeast Africa, so very far away from Ghana considering Africa to be the second largest continent in the world. Anyways, I just bring this up because I have had many people ask of the safety and situations occurring here because of recent events. Thank you everyone for the concern; I am safe :)

On a less dense note, I can't believe that I am entering my 7th week in Ghana, AH! Time is flying by! So, I am choosing to take advantage of today and days to come, I hope yall do too!

Love and miss you all!

Kumasi!

Hello all! I am happy to say that my trip to the Asanti Region in Ghana was a success! It took us (CIEE students and staff) 5 hours by bus to get to the capital of this region, Kumasi. To give you an idea of our path, we went from Accra through the Eastern Region and then across to Kumasi. Once we were out of Accra the mountains started to appear and everything became more green and forest-like. Ghana truly has one of the most beautiful landscapes that I have seen. The Asanti Region is not mountainous however, even though it does maintain more greenery than the coast of Accra. Think tropical- the bananas grow everywhere here, including the side of roads.

Our first destination in the Asanti Region was the traditional homes of the kingdom of Asanti. The history of this group of people stretches far and wide. Before borders were drawn and British gained complete control over the area, the Asanti Kingdom reined over country borders into Burkina Faso, Togo, and Cote D'Ivoire. Today only 10 traditional homes remain out of the thousands that existed before. 

We then headed to Bonwire Kente Cloth Shop. Here, Kente cloth, a traditional and expensive luxury, is made. The fabric is woven by hand, and the best Kente comes from this shop in Kumasi. Everything in the shop was so beautiful! The only downside to this place was the extreme amount of outside vendors that wanted us to buy anything and everything from them. The hasting was quite overwhelming for most of us so we didn't spend as much quality time at Bonwire as I would have liked. I think the amount of us that showed up was the cause for such a commotion. Nevertheless, it was a one-in-a-lifetime experience.  

The next day we had the unique experience of listening to Adadam Agofomma and his drummers. They played Palm Wine Music, a Ghanaian genre of music that incorporates drums, guitar, vocals, and dancing. It was awesome!! If you have a moment to google it, I highly recommend it. Here are some of the drummers and dancers that we got to watch.

 We then went to the Palace House Museum. This is the old palace of the Asanti kings (the new one located a few meters away.) I definitely learned a lot of history about the Asanti kingdom in general and got to see some beautiful antiques. The last main stop on our trip in Kumasi was to the Central Market. This is the biggest market in West Africa...quite a sight to see, I must say. Another interesting thing to learn was that everything for the most part is less expensive in Kumasi than in Accra. So for instance, I bought a bunch of fabric. In Accra most cloth runs for 4ish cedi a yard however at the Central Market I was able to get most of my fabric for 1.5 cedi a yard. Bargain? Hell yes. 

My friend Jessalyn and I met a high school student named Emmanuel on a walk that we went on the morning before we left Kumasi. He shared a lot of facts about Kumasi with us and even brought up the cost of living. He said that Accra is by far more expensive than the Asanti region. I had no idea. I can also say that he is one of the nicest people that I have met on the streets of Ghana. Emmanuel's private tour of the little suburb in Kumasi was definitely a positive and light-hearted way to end the trip.

Today, Monday, has also been a wonderful start to the week and I have high hopes for the rest of it. Just to give some photo-credit to my friends, all of these photos were taken by someone other than me. In my defense, my camera needs to be charged...so until that happens you can see my experiences through the eyes of some of my friends :)

Hope everyone is doing well! I miss and think ya'll often.
With Love,
Anna

"All the People that Come and Go, Stop and Say Hello"

I have come across many creatures in Ghana so far. There have been horses, monkeys, mosquitoes, birds of every size, dogs with funny Yoda ears, and cats that should belong to Egyptians. I even had a lizard sharing my room with me for a few days. However, it was not until today that I encountered such a scary animal- the fast and furious spider-breaching-tarantula. Now, knowing me, this was naturally a justified excuse for a heart attack. Luckily, I have an older brother, and I have come to the conclusion that the roles of a brother are universal. So, when the beast moved, I may or may not have screamed, but I definitely booked it out of my room. My brother, Leslie, came to the rescue, and laughingly alleviated the situation. 

I have always been lucky to have a brother to come and save the day when scary bugs appear. When I first saw this spider I think I died a little inside because (1) I had no clue what to do about it given the fact that I was not in a million years going to get close enough with a shoe to kill it, and (2) The fact that I didn't have Daniel around to fix the problem spurred a bit of nostalgia for home. Ironically, this incident lifted my spirits a bit because I found the brotherly/familial qualities in Leslie. I am not alone here, even though some moments can feel a little isolating. I've been reflecting this past week on courage. I have been a bit bogged down by some intimidating factors. After my spider incident, I think that maybe it isn't courage that I need more of but rather the ability to receive help/friendship/recognition/return of others around me that I have been passing away from. So Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da, life goes on, as do my adventures in Accra!

 

Along the lines of adventures, I went to LaBadie Beach in Accra a few weekends ago. My friends and I got there earlier than the beach crowd so we got to enjoy the peaceful ocean before the crowds took over. My friends here (all CIEE students as well) are quite a comical bunch. There is Ian, a spacy yet enthusiastic kid from Indiana, Anil, our bodyguard/boyfriend/husband from New Jersey, Jessalyn, a girl from Tulane that I met here in Ghana, Paige, Tera, and Cassie. So off we went to the beach, ready for the extreme sun, cold water, and relaxation. This beach turned out to be more of a market than a beach. People were selling everything from bracelets to dresses and art, beer, and basically anything else that you could ever want. We had a good time at the beach and are planning our next excursion to the nicer, cleaner, and more secluded beaches of Ghana. 

So if I haven't mentioned transportation yet it is because I am still figuring it out. To get to school I take taxis (way cheaper here than in the US). I can also walk to some places depending on time of day and if I am in a hurry. Another form of public transit is the trotro. This invention is kind of like a bus...except they are vans that have been slightly converted. They actually remind me of the New Orleans street car in a way because they are often extremely overcrowded, hot, and guarantee an interesting experience every time. I actually really enjoy them so far and I take them whenever they are available in the direction I am going. 

This weekend I will be heading to the Ashanti region with my program. I am so excited about it so keep a lookout for a post in the upcoming week with pictures!

"We'll All Float On Any Way Well"

My host father took me with him and part of his very large family to a wedding in the Volta region on the 18th of August. After a 2 or 3 hour drive on some very bumpy roads I found myself in one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. These 2 hours (by bus) landed us in the mountains where the Volta River runs down into a large lake. Being out of the hectic city was exactly what I needed.

The town that the wedding took place in was called Akosombo. This is actually the same place where the Volta dam is located, as well as a large dump site for trash. A fun fact, both sites contribute to creating a large amount of electricity to the surrounding areas of Ghana.

The wedding that we attended was for my host father's aunt. Since I went with his family I was able to meet many of his nieces, a brother, his mother, and many many more people. Everyone was a joy to be around, however it was definitely apparent that they were not used to being around an Obruni. Because of this, I think it took them a while to figure out how/why/what I was doing in Ghana and with their family in general. They all speak Ewe as their first language too, so the communication was a little rough, but nevertheless, a good experience. I hope to see them all again.

The wedding was also a mass wedding, and a Catholic ceremony at that. By mass wedding, I mean that there were 21 couples from different parts of Ghana getting married during the same ceremony. What an experience. I (once again) forgot my camera, so any pictures here are googled. I am sorry that I can't show you what the ceremony looked like. There were probably more than 1,000 people at this ceremony, and at least 100 of them were part of my host family.

I would also like to take the time to point out a few things about Ghana. Notice in the picture about the stands- all part of the informal economy that seems to support many many people in Ghana...maybe even though country as a whole. If I am sitting in a Trotro (bus) or a taxi during traffic I can buy anything that I want from a lady that is carrying merchandise. Similarly, the stands are like mini markets that hold a collection of random things. So fruit, phone minutes, movies, water, gum, etc are all able to be obtained at these places. It is definitely a site of discussion for those interested in the intersectionality of gender, economy, ethnicity, corporation, status, and much more.

Speaking of shopping, the day before the wedding I went to Kantamanto Market in Accra. This is one of the biggest and busiest markets in the city. It was a fun, yet highly claustrophobic experience. I was able to bargain for some shoes and two skirts.  Later on, I will be looking for fabric to make traditional clothing. The traditional women's attire is so pretty and they all wear it well. Also, the clothing is made for each individual so it fits perfectly. The fabrics are full of color and pattern, durable, and elegant. I am too excited to start this process!

Today, Sunday the 19th of August, I went to church with one of my brothers. Religion (specifically Christianity in Southern Ghana) is a big deal. Recently BBC voted Ghana one of the most religion nations in the world. Topics of faith, religion, acceptance, etc. are daily conversations and Ghanaians are comfortable talking to anyone (even strangers) about religion. This is a big difference from the US and honestly, I am finding it a little difficult to adjust to. I am hoping to soon find a fitting way to be comfortable in such discussions while also being true to myself and my own spirituality. Gender is also something that I am interested in unraveling even more. Every day I experience first hand the power that identity plays into interactions we have with others. Being female, white, and ambiguous with religion, I am finding interesting dynamics flowing through my days. I am curious to see how my classmates from the US and I break through these barriers. We are like children, learning new things every day, understanding better how to cope with a new life and environment.

In the words of Modest Mouse, "already we'll all float on alright, don't worry even if things end up a bit too heavy, we'll all float on all right."