"All the People that Come and Go, Stop and Say Hello"

I have come across many creatures in Ghana so far. There have been horses, monkeys, mosquitoes, birds of every size, dogs with funny Yoda ears, and cats that should belong to Egyptians. I even had a lizard sharing my room with me for a few days. However, it was not until today that I encountered such a scary animal- the fast and furious spider-breaching-tarantula. Now, knowing me, this was naturally a justified excuse for a heart attack. Luckily, I have an older brother, and I have come to the conclusion that the roles of a brother are universal. So, when the beast moved, I may or may not have screamed, but I definitely booked it out of my room. My brother, Leslie, came to the rescue, and laughingly alleviated the situation. 

I have always been lucky to have a brother to come and save the day when scary bugs appear. When I first saw this spider I think I died a little inside because (1) I had no clue what to do about it given the fact that I was not in a million years going to get close enough with a shoe to kill it, and (2) The fact that I didn't have Daniel around to fix the problem spurred a bit of nostalgia for home. Ironically, this incident lifted my spirits a bit because I found the brotherly/familial qualities in Leslie. I am not alone here, even though some moments can feel a little isolating. I've been reflecting this past week on courage. I have been a bit bogged down by some intimidating factors. After my spider incident, I think that maybe it isn't courage that I need more of but rather the ability to receive help/friendship/recognition/return of others around me that I have been passing away from. So Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da, life goes on, as do my adventures in Accra!

 

Along the lines of adventures, I went to LaBadie Beach in Accra a few weekends ago. My friends and I got there earlier than the beach crowd so we got to enjoy the peaceful ocean before the crowds took over. My friends here (all CIEE students as well) are quite a comical bunch. There is Ian, a spacy yet enthusiastic kid from Indiana, Anil, our bodyguard/boyfriend/husband from New Jersey, Jessalyn, a girl from Tulane that I met here in Ghana, Paige, Tera, and Cassie. So off we went to the beach, ready for the extreme sun, cold water, and relaxation. This beach turned out to be more of a market than a beach. People were selling everything from bracelets to dresses and art, beer, and basically anything else that you could ever want. We had a good time at the beach and are planning our next excursion to the nicer, cleaner, and more secluded beaches of Ghana. 

So if I haven't mentioned transportation yet it is because I am still figuring it out. To get to school I take taxis (way cheaper here than in the US). I can also walk to some places depending on time of day and if I am in a hurry. Another form of public transit is the trotro. This invention is kind of like a bus...except they are vans that have been slightly converted. They actually remind me of the New Orleans street car in a way because they are often extremely overcrowded, hot, and guarantee an interesting experience every time. I actually really enjoy them so far and I take them whenever they are available in the direction I am going. 

This weekend I will be heading to the Ashanti region with my program. I am so excited about it so keep a lookout for a post in the upcoming week with pictures!

"We'll All Float On Any Way Well"

My host father took me with him and part of his very large family to a wedding in the Volta region on the 18th of August. After a 2 or 3 hour drive on some very bumpy roads I found myself in one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. These 2 hours (by bus) landed us in the mountains where the Volta River runs down into a large lake. Being out of the hectic city was exactly what I needed.

The town that the wedding took place in was called Akosombo. This is actually the same place where the Volta dam is located, as well as a large dump site for trash. A fun fact, both sites contribute to creating a large amount of electricity to the surrounding areas of Ghana.

The wedding that we attended was for my host father's aunt. Since I went with his family I was able to meet many of his nieces, a brother, his mother, and many many more people. Everyone was a joy to be around, however it was definitely apparent that they were not used to being around an Obruni. Because of this, I think it took them a while to figure out how/why/what I was doing in Ghana and with their family in general. They all speak Ewe as their first language too, so the communication was a little rough, but nevertheless, a good experience. I hope to see them all again.

The wedding was also a mass wedding, and a Catholic ceremony at that. By mass wedding, I mean that there were 21 couples from different parts of Ghana getting married during the same ceremony. What an experience. I (once again) forgot my camera, so any pictures here are googled. I am sorry that I can't show you what the ceremony looked like. There were probably more than 1,000 people at this ceremony, and at least 100 of them were part of my host family.

I would also like to take the time to point out a few things about Ghana. Notice in the picture about the stands- all part of the informal economy that seems to support many many people in Ghana...maybe even though country as a whole. If I am sitting in a Trotro (bus) or a taxi during traffic I can buy anything that I want from a lady that is carrying merchandise. Similarly, the stands are like mini markets that hold a collection of random things. So fruit, phone minutes, movies, water, gum, etc are all able to be obtained at these places. It is definitely a site of discussion for those interested in the intersectionality of gender, economy, ethnicity, corporation, status, and much more.

Speaking of shopping, the day before the wedding I went to Kantamanto Market in Accra. This is one of the biggest and busiest markets in the city. It was a fun, yet highly claustrophobic experience. I was able to bargain for some shoes and two skirts.  Later on, I will be looking for fabric to make traditional clothing. The traditional women's attire is so pretty and they all wear it well. Also, the clothing is made for each individual so it fits perfectly. The fabrics are full of color and pattern, durable, and elegant. I am too excited to start this process!

Today, Sunday the 19th of August, I went to church with one of my brothers. Religion (specifically Christianity in Southern Ghana) is a big deal. Recently BBC voted Ghana one of the most religion nations in the world. Topics of faith, religion, acceptance, etc. are daily conversations and Ghanaians are comfortable talking to anyone (even strangers) about religion. This is a big difference from the US and honestly, I am finding it a little difficult to adjust to. I am hoping to soon find a fitting way to be comfortable in such discussions while also being true to myself and my own spirituality. Gender is also something that I am interested in unraveling even more. Every day I experience first hand the power that identity plays into interactions we have with others. Being female, white, and ambiguous with religion, I am finding interesting dynamics flowing through my days. I am curious to see how my classmates from the US and I break through these barriers. We are like children, learning new things every day, understanding better how to cope with a new life and environment.

In the words of Modest Mouse, "already we'll all float on alright, don't worry even if things end up a bit too heavy, we'll all float on all right."

Just Call me Abena

My friends, I am in Ghana! I have decided that a general blog will be the best way to communicate with everyone and share my experiences more often. I hope this finds you well. So far, these past 2ish weeks have been full of excitement, and I am starting to realize that I truly am in Ghana. I am sorry to say that I have been bad at taking pictures, but I will try my best in the future. Just so you know, I live in the greater area of Accra, the capital city.

            I could not have had a better first week in this beautiful country. Since I am writing this in hindsight it is hard for me to begin to share my days, but I will try. I feel like a child- I am learning how to say words, like welcome, good morning, and how are you. Objects are named different things and so I too am also learning perspectives in objectivity. For instance, Ghana grows delicious avocados, yet they are not called avocados, but pears. These pears are not our American sweet pears but instead the most delicious avocado. Perspective- this was one of my major lessons this week.

            The flights from Houston to Accra created a time warp of surrealism. To fly a total of 22 hours across the Atlantic in a capsule helped to preserve my American culture until I found myself in the customs line of Accra. My passport in itself upheld its identity and made everything I did a breeze. What a strange sensation. Rules in Ghana are not so strict, even in border lines at the airport. A few US students and I were moved from the international customs line to the South African line (a separate line due to alliances in the country) in order to shorted the length of time. So those of us that got in that line had a very easy time getting through by showing our Ghanaian visas and our US passports whereas the others were hassled and told their visas were only for 60 days. We all got through, and we all have 60 day visas, but the point is that where you stand in Ghana makes a big difference. Perspective.

            Our program picked a group of 20 students up from the airport at 10pm. The CIEE leaders are so wonderful; they have made the trip friendly, easy, and welcoming. Akwaaba. This was our first Twi word- it means “welcome”. Akwaaba we were told over and over again to make sure that it stuck and sunk in.

            Another fun fact about my program is that there are 3 Annas. We have all decided that this has probably never happened in the history of the name Anna (joking of course.) And, to make a funnier situation, another Anna and I were roommates at the hotel during orientation. It was nice though, because everyone knows the three of us, I never have to repeat my name. From the beginning I have been a part of something and I know that while my situations will evolve, I will find ways to integrate myself into great spaces in Ghana. On a similar note, my day name is Abena. Everyone in Ghana has a name based on the week day that they were born. So to the other Abenas, they are my sisters by day. What a way to create unity, yeah?

            There have been too many events in the past  2 weeks to recount, and I apologize for not writing them on the computer as they happened. I have been journaling for personal use, but I forgot to list the days happenings. So instead, I will list some things and explain some others:

·         I learned the currency exchange between Dollars and Cedis. Basically, 1 cedi is 50 cents; everything here is half. So, if I realistically buy a mango for 50 pesewas (there are 100 pesewas in a cedi) then I am actually paying 25 US cents. Joy to the US currency at this moment, but nevertheless another lesson in perspective, or should I say privilege.

·         I learned how to bargain. I can lower the price of almost anything. So instead of getting the “Obruni” (white person’s price), I can get the real negotiated price.

·         I learned how to get taxis, trotros (buses), and where to walk

·         I learned that Ghana only has open gutters…and that I should avoid at all cost to not fall in…hahaha

·         I have learned how it feels to be a minority, and more so, my experiences so far have showed me that racial constructions in the US do not carry over. Race is not the same. Being white here means money, but it also just means that you are foreign. Ethnic groups are the main difference, and it tends to be grouped by language. The greater Accra area (where I live) is mostly Asante, and the bigger language is Twi. However my family is from the Volta region (the Volta is a lake) and they speak Ewe first. I hope to learn more of their lineage as the months go on.

·         I have learned that respect is the most important factor to Ghanaians. Hospitality is what everyone deserves to receive.

·         I learned where campus is

·         I learned how to register for classes

·         I got a cell phone

·         I learned to use my voice and personality as a graceful tool when I do not know how to do something. I know that I can always ask for help.

·         I learned that politics in Ghana try to reflect the US (because to them, we are a great nation, at least in government and economics.)

·         I have seen the surface level problems that developing countries face. My house is very wealthy (and large). I have running water yet the electricity goes out frequently. The water is only suitable to drink or consume if it is bottled or boiled, never ever from the faucet. There are cars but the roads are dirt and some look like they were recently dug. I can drive 5 minutes and see extreme poverty, yet I know that I have not even begun to see the worst. So, I feel so lucky to live with my family in East Legon.

·         I saw a monkey chained like a dog to a tree on campus…maybe it was a pet?

·         Note: goats in the back yard or chickens might be pets one day and dinner the next. They do not have names.

·         Meat and starch are the main diet of Ghanaians...

·         Ghana is one of the most religious countries in the world, Southern Ghana (where I am) is extremely Christian. Everything people do here is lead by their faith.

·         I have learned that Ghanaian men want to talk to white girls…hahaha

·         I can literally buy a coconut to drink (it is absolutely delicious and full of vitamins and minerals).

So many things have happened and this is just the surface of everything. I wish I could remember everything.  As for my family, I have two older brothers, two sisters (one has a baby girl), a father, and a mother. This family is so kind and I cannot wait to be fully integrated into their lives. I am sure that in time that will happen. 

I started classes on Monday however I only sat through a few lectures. Things are slower here so I don't expect classes to be in full swing until the middle of next week. This week, due to a public holiday and my class schedule, I have a 5 day weekend- yay me! I am hoping to start my internship next week. The organization I will be working for is called WILDAF, if you have time maybe you can google it. WILDAF deals with women in development for the purpose of helping them with legal issues. Hopefully I can do well with that. 

I will try my best to keep this blog up-to-date. Please feel free to email or facebook me too!

With much love,

Anna